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1780's Stays - Side I by Goldenspring 1780's Stays - Side I by Goldenspring
Hand-sewn 1780's style stays. These stays are made of three layers of linen and will eventually have a fourth layer consisting of a loose lining. The exterior is a lovely Italian linen dyed by me to a reddish pink to mimic some extant pairs of stays from this period. The boning is pounded ash from the ever-obliging Nate of Nate's Nantucket baskets. The binding and seam covering is white lambskin. All seams are sewn in linen thread. The boning channels are stitched in back-stitch.

The stays are cut to give more lift and shape than the stays of earlier in the century. To do this the boning of the front panel splays out instead of all going in exactly the same direction. These stays also have an additional partial set of eyelets at the center front which can be used to adjust the bust measurement, though in reality they are mostly decorative.

I originally intended these stays to have straps. My goal was to model the straps off a pair of stays at the V&A where the they are not of a pieces with the body of the stays but seem to have been stitched on separately in the back and then attached in the front. At the moment these stays fit quite well without the straps and my attempts to add them have so far been unsuccessful. I would like to if possible simply because most stays of this period do in fact have straps.

The more observant viewer will notice that these stays are not fully boned and that on the side panels wrinkles form in the un-boned spaces. I believe this is due to my not having cut the panels on the correct grain which is frustrating but doesn't pose any structural problems so I guess I'll just know not to do that next time.
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:iconvickitoriaembroidery:
VickitoriaEmbroidery Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2011  Professional Artisan Crafter
Your stays look amazing! Very pretty colour too :)
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2011  Student Artisan Crafter
Thank you! (Took me forever to get that colour. I had to dye it like three times!)
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:iconshifty-llama:
Shifty-Llama Featured By Owner Sep 14, 2011  Student General Artist
Love THIS!!!!! Also are you in the year doing Titanic era costume or are you one year away?
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Sep 15, 2011  Student Artisan Crafter
Is that what they're doing? Lynn wouldn't tell us on Tuesday. Awesome. No, I'm one year away. Damn, I'd love to do 1910's...
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:icontessalina:
tessalina Featured By Owner Jun 7, 2011  Professional Photographer
These turned out great! My 18th century stays weren't quite as pretty.
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:iconlenchens:
Lenchens Featured By Owner Apr 4, 2011
WOW!!!!
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:iconm-n-m-s:
M-n-M-s Featured By Owner Feb 1, 2011
it's grate, looks like you've put a lot hard work in it, and it paid off :)
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:iconmedieval-squirrel:
medieval-squirrel Featured By Owner Oct 19, 2010   Artisan Crafter
Stunning! You must have put so much time into that? Loving it! :D
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:iconmedieval-squirrel:
medieval-squirrel Featured By Owner Oct 19, 2010   Artisan Crafter
Stunning! You must have put so much time into that? Loving it! :D
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:iconalalne:
AlAlNe Featured By Owner Jul 24, 2010
in-flipping-credible!!
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jul 26, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
:D thanks
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:iconnyx-valentine:
Nyx-Valentine Featured By Owner Jul 21, 2010  Professional General Artist
Very cool historically inspired work!
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jul 22, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
Thanks! I think of this piece more as a replica than simply something created with historical inspiration though.
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:iconsidneyeileen:
sidneyeileen Featured By Owner Jul 21, 2010  Professional Traditional Artist
:wave: Hi! I included this deviation in a news article in honor of Costumery Week in the Artisan Crafts gallery. --> [link]
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jul 21, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
Thanks! I saw the article in your journal.
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:icono0arwen0o:
o0arwen0o Featured By Owner Jul 19, 2010
I believe another reason for the wrinkles is simply the fact that the garment is tight. When you are fitting a blouse or fitted top, you actually have to be careful not to fit it too tightly, or else wrinkles will happen. In a corset, the boning serves to prevent that, as well as to give structure.
I am by all means not an expert, but this is what I have learned about wrinklage.
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jul 20, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
Certainly it would not wrinkle if it was not tight but I'm still of the opinion that if I had cut the grain lines "correctly" it could have been avoided. Since I'm not sure what "correctly" would have been in this case, I'll just have to add this problem to the list of things to do better next time.
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:iconquinntrix:
Quinntrix Featured By Owner Jul 18, 2010
Oh wow - these give such a gorgeous shape and they're so pretty! I need to get hold of some of this leather for my next set of stays.
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:iconbluerosetayu:
bluerosetayu Featured By Owner Jul 3, 2010
wow, I'm impressed, that's some awesome handwork!
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jun 21, 2010  Professional Artisan Crafter
oh right, and the little eyelets I like, that's alot of work, and your tiny hand stitches are great :D phew! keep it up :D
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jun 21, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
those eyelets were a lot easier than the back ones because they weren't going to be bearing so much weight but man were there a lot of them! I do really like the way they look though. Hopefully I'm going to get some 1/4" silk ribbon this weekend and then I'm going to use that for lacing the front set of eyelets. I think that will look nice.
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jun 22, 2010  Professional Artisan Crafter
oh I see, not as much work per hole. but yes, silk ribbon is the way to go :D
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jun 21, 2010  Professional Artisan Crafter
mmmmhmmmm very impressive... that's a lot of work, I'm still a long way from doing any completely hand sewn fabric garments. I am getting closer with the couture and then tailoring classes I've taken.

hehe when are you going to make a garment from the 1850's so you can use a sewing machine ;)
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jun 21, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
well i think i need some steampunk garb so I'm thinking my next corset is going to be from the second half of the 19th century. Then again I've been saying that for a while so we'll see. :D
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jun 22, 2010  Professional Artisan Crafter
haha don't I know how that is...
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jun 22, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
well, I've ordered a book on the subject from amazon. Maybe this will be a two corset year. :D
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jun 23, 2010  Professional Artisan Crafter
oh? What's the title?
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jun 24, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques [link]
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jul 14, 2010  Professional Artisan Crafter
ooo that does look like a nice book :D
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jul 14, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
yes! I'm a fan. it's got good diagrams, it's a good companion to Corsets and Crinolines. Together there is one decent historical corset book.
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:iconpauletta90:
Pauletta90 Featured By Owner Jun 18, 2010  Professional Artisan Crafter
Fancy! Well done!
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:iconcliz:
cliz Featured By Owner Jun 18, 2010
These give SUCH a nice shape, I want some.
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jun 18, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
Thanks! I'm super happy I got the shape I wanted with these.
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:iconsannamak:
SannaMaK Featured By Owner Jun 18, 2010
My goodness! Absolutely GORGEOUS! And the shape that these stays give looks very beautiful!
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jun 18, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
Thanks!
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:iconsannamak:
SannaMaK Featured By Owner Jun 18, 2010
I have never heard about this.. pounded ash before.. I don't recognize the English word at least... Could you enlighten me a bit?
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jun 18, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
ah, yes sorry. it's wood from the ash tree. they pound it and it splits into strips. usually it's for basket making but if it's cut thickly it works well for stays
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:iconsannamak:
SannaMaK Featured By Owner Jun 19, 2010
Oh, thanks for the info :) I really appreciate it :D
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jun 19, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
Any time! just ask away
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:iconladyjamie:
LadyJamie Featured By Owner Jun 17, 2010
Gorgeous! Eugh too much hand sewing for me to wrap my brain around, but really really lovely.
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jun 17, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
you just take a stitch, and then another stitch...and then another stitch. :P Thanks.
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